Via Ferrata Oskar Schuster
Base Town: Ortisei in Val Gardena, South Tyrol; Trailhead: Rifugio Toni Demetz; Transportation to Trailhead: local valley bus and gondola
Via Ferrata Oskar Schuster is a thrilling intermediate level alpine climbing route in the Sassolungo (Langkofel) Group of the Italian Dolomites - a gorgeous and iconic mountain range separating Val Gardena and Val di Fassa.
Sassolungo Group, Italian Dolomites
VF Oskar Schuster was installed before World War I, unlike many other via ferrata routes in the Dolomites. This course wasn’t built for troop movement; rather, it was built for fun and adventure! In 1895, German physician and alpinist Oskar Schuster pioneered and marked this route through the gullies and chimneys of Sassolungo to the summit of Sasso Piatto (Plattkofel). Over the past 125 years, the route has been maintained, updated and modernized and remains a renowned and beloved course - for good reason! It offers fun and assisted climbing through formidable terrain, with a rewarding view across Alpe di Siusi from the summit of Sasso Piatto at nearly 3,000 meters (9,705 feet) above sea level.
Bird’s eye view of Alpe di Siusi and Val Tires
The morning of our climb, we were out the door early to catch the local Val Gardena bus to Passo Sella. From there, we squeezed into a tiny 4-person cable car, which whisked us across limestone rubble and up to Rifugio Toni Demetz. (Note: One can hike along a steep switchback up to the rifugio, perched at an altitude of 2,685 km (nearly 8,800 feet), but we wanted to reserve our energy for the actual via ferrata course, so we took the sky-road via air gondola.)
Rifugio Toni Demetz is known for its deep snow base, which lingers through the summer. After disembarking from the gondola lift, we made a quick pitstop at the hut and then crunched through late-season blackened snow to begin Trail 525’s switchback down a long, rocky gully. Clouds and fog wafted downward in a thick mass and then, warmed by the sun, rose and dissipated. The descent was long, but not technical.
Rifugio Vicenza (Langkofel Hutte) sits at the bottom of the scree gully. Day hikers approaching from a variety of trails snaking in all directions gather here for a rest and snack. It’s a lively hut, with friendly staff who assured us that the via ferrata was clear of snow. From the hut, we headed into the Plattkofel cirque for an arduous climb up to the base of the via ferrata. The via ferrata starts with an unassisted rock scramble with minimal directional arrows; it was a bit of a puzzle, but we eventually found the first ladder.
From there to the top, it’s uninterrupted climbing, with plenty of cables, ladders and iron rungs winding up the chimneys. The course was not crowded; we saw just a handful of others, higher up on the course. Tucked into the belly of the Sassolungo Group, with nothing but rock, scree, spires, and birds, we felt as if we were exploring another planet!
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The final section of the via ferrata involves a scramble to a jagged ridge, then a final scurry to the cross at the summit. Immense 360 degree views are the payoff for hours of hiking and climbing!
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The backside of Sasso Piatto is a treeless slope consisting of loose rock. Its mild appearance is deceiving; we took it slow on the descent as it was quite volatile beneath our feet! Slippery slope of round rolling pebbles - yikes! The path is not always clear at times, but we headed in the general direction of Rifugio Sasso Piatto on a saddle where the rocky slope merges into a grassy green Alpine meadow. We stopped at bench with expansive views of Alpe di Siusi on one side and Marmolada, with its blue glacier shimmering in the afternoon sun, on the opposite side. From Rifugio Sasso Piatto, we followed Trail 557, which looped back to Passo Sella along a scenic and mild footpath.
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Eventually, the trail returned us full circle around Sassolungo Group, with gorgeous views of its lofty peaks rising from a blanket of colorful wildflowers. It was an epic end to a truly brilliant hiking and via ferrata course. Definitely one of our favorites!!
Trail 557, Col Rodella just ahead
Clouds growing darker near Sassolungo in late afternoon
General Course Overview: VF Oskar Schuster
The images below provide a general idea of the course. The via ferrata is actually a small fraction of the total ~8+ mile hiking distance. The approach from Rifugio Toni Demetz down to Langkofel Hut and then up through Plattkofel cirque has quite a bit of elevation change before the start of the via ferrata. Then from Sasso Piatto summit, it’s still a long way back down and around the Sella Group to return to Passo Sella. Be prepared for a long — but utterly exhilarating — day! Important note: Pay attention to the bus schedule, if you plan to catch the bus back into town. Val Gardena buses from Passo Sella stop running around 5:30 or 6:30 p.m. and the hike can take 6-8 hours. We literally RAN for the last bus of the day back to Ortisei!
