Base Town: Dobbiaco in Val Pusteria, South Tyrol; Base Hut: Berti Hut during our Unusual 5 Night Trek in Tre Cime Nature Park

On day 4 of our Unusual 5 Day Trek in Tre Cime Nature Park, we were in Val Grande in Belluno, Veneto province. We had just spent 2 nights at Rotwandweisen Hut, enjoying the trails and via ferratas around Val Fischalina and Croda Rossa di Sesto, including VF Strada degli Alpini and VF Nord Croda Rossa. From Moos, we traveled east by taxi over Kreuzberg Pass to Val Grande, sleeping one night at Lunelli Hut. It was a dark and stormy night…

We awoke to bright skies, dewey flowers, and that fresh, clean smell that follows a ferocious storm. After a rather austere breakfast of bread, butter, and jam at Lunelli Hut, we began the mile high climb to Berti Hut, perched on a cliff directly above Val Grande. Crossing streams swollen from the rain and a full waterfall tumbling dramatically down the hillside, it was a scenic and straightforward hike.

We arrived at Berti Hut before noon; too early for check-in. We ordered some lunch (bean soup with a hot dog and some apple pie). Leaving our heavy packs at the hut, we set out for a day hike along Trail 124, following signs to Popera Lago, a small, seasonal lake on the eastern side of Passo della Sentinella. Within minutes, we were in heaven - truly, nature is the greatest landscaper.

Trail 124 in the Popera, headed towards Lago di Popera

What a rock garden! Nature is the best landscaper.

The Belvedere Creston Popera is a loop trail at the base of the Popera Group in the eastern Dolomites, on the opposite side of Passo della Sentinella and Nord Croda Rossa di Sesto. The loop trail meanders through a broad glacier-carved caldera and zig-zags to various panoramic viewpoints overlooking Val Comelico and Val Grande. This was another fiercely contested area during World War I, with Italians and Austrians battling for control of strategic high ground. It’s hard to envision this idyllic landscape strewn with barbed wire and trampled by foot soldiers, equipment, and horses; difficult to imagine the sound of gunfire, heavy artillery, and anguished cries; bloodshed; fear… Today, we felt nothing but peaceful serenity, where nature has reclaimed its rightful ownership of the high mountain plateau.

From the caldera, we noticed a trail zig-zagging up to a jagged ridge. Gathering clouds had grown darker, but we were prepared for rain, so we proceeded up the switchback. Within a few minutes, we began to encounter World War I tunnels, trenches, and cave bunkers. We ducked into a cave, switched on our headlamps, and explored the off-shoot tunnels. Some led to look-out points with expansive views of Val Comelico or strategic high ground areas; others were carved out for daily soldier life.

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Higher up on another grassy ridge, we could see a cross. Locating the trail, we scurried up the grassy slope as the weather darkened. The cross is a memorial site dedicated to the WWI soldiers who fought here. There was a box with a visitor log, so we left a note. Just as we prepared to head down, we felt the rain drops. Donning rain ponchos, we hurried to lower ground and made our way back to Berti Hut in a light shower.

The next morning, we attempted a few of the other trails from Berti Hut leading up towards via ferrata Rhogel, but landslide closures and snow depth prevented us from reaching any particular destination. So, we spent another glorious — and sunny! — afternoon back on the Belvedere Creston Popera loop. We found a peaceful spot overlooking Val Grande, laid down on a sun-warmed rock and napped. We discovered a 4G cell signal on this beautiful perch and ended up spending the entire afternoon lounging amidst the wildflowers, booking advance reservations for the week ahead and even taking a conference call for work.

Taking in the view of Val Grande from Belvedere Creston Popera loop

Observing Val Grande to Padola from Trail 124 in Belluno, Veneto.

A blazing orange sunset marked the last day of our Unusual 5 Night Trek in Tre Cime Nature Park. The next day, we watched the fog lift from the valley, settling higher up in the grey rocky peaks of Vallona de Poppera. We took our time descending to the valley floor. At Lunelli Hut, we followed a path into the hemlock forest, bound on foot for the small cross-country ski resort of Padola, where we planned a few days of rest, relaxation, and laundry.