Days 6 - 11 on the Lycian Way

After nearly a week exploring the ruins of Letoon, Xanthos, and Gelemiş, we were in the groove of our “Plan B” and really loving the laid-back adventure. Rather than hiking the Lycian Way end-to-end, we were immersed in the best the trail had to offer - and then some! Our next stop along Turkey’s Turquoise Coast was Kaş.

From Gelemiş, we rode a local bus through the mountains, arriving in Kaş top-side, with the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea gleaming far below. In low gear and engine braking, the bus carefully zig-zagged down the steep and narrow switchback along the cliffs, finally coasting into the bus station at the base of the mountain. We retrieved our backpacks and walked along a busy road into town. Although bigger and busier than our quiet little secluded retreat in Gelemiş, Kaş had a bohemian, laid-back energy similar to a Mexican beach town like Tulum or Holbox. Even the street dogs are chill.

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All roads lead downward to the port area and old town Kaş. From the port, it’s an ascent to everywhere else. We followed a flower-lined street up a steep hill, passing a Lycian rock tomb parked for millenia in the middle of the road. Once the ancient Lycian port of Antiphellos, archaeological ruins are never far from modern life in Kaş, and that’s part of the charm — sipping coffee next to a 2,000-year-old sarcophagus or watching local musicians perform on the stage of a Roman amphitheatre.

Evening performance at Antiphellos amphitheater

We initially booked a room for two nights, but extended our stay twice for a total of 5 nights and 6 fun-filled days. Besides just enjoying the chill rhythm of slow coastal life, there was so much to do!

Scuba Diving in Kaş-Kekova Marine Preservation Area

The port area is lined with shops and vendors selling boat tours, kayaking and scuba diving trips. Since we had just become certified to dive while in Oaxaca, Mexico, in May, we were excited to refresh our skills. We booked our scuba trip with Dragoman Dive Center, based on great reviews and a welcoming shop. The experience was top notch from start to finish — and at an affordable price! We paid about $80 each for two dives, including all equipment, lunch, beverages and snacks, and our own dedicated (and patient) guide.

We boarded the boat at 9:30 in the morning. The lower deck had a spacious prep area, with a step-off dive platform, shower, and changing room. The upper deck was reserved for lounging under a shady canopy, planning dives and watching the shoreline zip by. Joining us on the boat were several other couples and single divers, along with a few snorklers. It seemed nearly everyone had a dedicated guide, as well. End of season has its perks!

Our guide, Bora, understood that we were newbies and delivered on his promise to take everything slow and easy. Unlike our first dives in Mexico, I had no problem equalizing and Bora helped me correct buoyancy issues within just a few short minutes. We headed to a plane “wreck” at 22 meters depth. The plane is a scrapped World War II C-47 Dakota purposely sunk to serve as an artificial reef for sea life in the Mediterranean. Bora guided us around the plane; we had a peek into the cockpit and cargo area and swam around the wings. Our second dive was over a rock reef near a lighthouse. Following the rocky little hill downwards kind of felt like “hiking” underwater; cool feeling.

Photos above are “borrowed” from Dragoman and the general web. While the underwater life was not as colorful or plentiful as Mexico, the visibility was good and we did see many fun creatures: lion fish (invasive species, but still cool to see!), grouper, silver dentex, trumpet fish, spiny urchins, squid, and a moray eel. We really need to get an underwater camera!

Sunken City Sea Kayaking Tour

Just off the sheltered harbor village of Üçağız - about 40 minutes from Kaş — lies the Sunken City of Kekova. We launched our sea kayaks about 8:30 in the morning and paddled across the shimmering calm waters of the Mediterranean on another Dragoman adventure.

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In Lycia, Kekova was the bustling port of Dolchiste, strategically positioned along maritime trade routes as an important supply station and trading area. A devastating earthquake in the 2nd century caused parts of the city to collapse and slide 30 feet into the sea. Rather than rebuild, survivors moved to safer ground inland and the submerged ruins were left to the elements and time. We drifted over and past the ruins of this submerged ghost town: stone foundations of homes and shops long forgotten, staircases and doorways to nowhere, dry wine chutes into the sea, and harbor walls dipped just below the surface.

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Nearby Lycian settlements, Simena (Kaleköy) and Teimiussa (Üçağız) just across the bay, continued for centuries. Lycian tombs dot the seascape and landscape by the thousands!

During the Byzantine period, new churches and other structures were built on Kekova and the mainland. Our guide told us that during medieval times, this protected bay area was an important stop on Crusader and Christian pilgrimage routes to the Holy Land. Ships would dock for a few days to resupply and travelers would get a chance to stretch their legs on solid ground.

Kekova

Byzantine Medieval Church

snorkling, swimming

We paddled across the bay from Kekova, with the ruins of Simena Castle in our sites. While the castle foundations were likely built by the Lycians, Roman and medieval Byzantine builders expanded upon the original fort over the years and it played a vital role in the medieval pilgrimage network. Manned by the Knights of Rhodes (also called the Knights Hospitaller), the fortress stood guard against pirates and Arab invaders. Our guide explained that Christians traveling to Jerusalem by sea could deposit money at their home church and then “cash in” along the route at fortified Christian outposts like this one in Simena — kind of like an early version of an ATM, centuries before modern banking.

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Our guided sea kayaking adventure - with a little snorkeling and a little hiking sprinkled in — gave us a real appreciation for the harbor’s role in early history as a prosperous Lycian settlement and trading post, a Roman resupply point, and later, as a safe haven for medieval travelers. Eventually, however, repeated earthquakes, Arab raids, and changing trade patterns drove populations of people away from the coastal areas. It wasn’t until relatively modern times that the cities along this calm harbor began to re-populate and revive.

Day Hike Along the Lycian Way

The Lycian Way runs through Kaş, so we naturally spent time hiking along various sections of the marked trail, including a section to the Antiphellos amphitheater and then a long coastal walk to Limanagzi. Most of the sections through Kaş are along sidewalks or paved roads (but with lots to see and, of course, gorgeous beach views).

After passing Büyükçakıl Plajı (beach), the road wound through a small neighborhood and eventually transitioned to rocky red clay and dirt. Now we were “hiking”!

We followed the trail along a high cliff overlooking Limanağzı cove, past Lycian rock tombs and a massive tomb carved into the red cliffside. This section of the trail was insanely beautiful, interesting, colorful, and even a little technical, as we picked our way down the narrow, steep trail to the cove far below.

The day was hot, humid and muggy. When we reached the bottom of the trail, we took a much-needed refreshing dip in the Mediterranean. Looking up at the cliffs from the water, we could see several more of the massive tombs carved into the cliff; they are only visible from the water! Note: when we reached the bottom of the trail, there was a roped-off boardwalk to a private beach club. Strict warning signs prohibited anyone not a club guest from walking on the boardwalk. Loud, aggressive techno music boomed from the empty club and the whole vibe felt “off”. We had reached the sea, with no other onward path except through the beach club. After our dip in the sea, we just headed back up the cliff and returned the way we came. * shrug *

It was probably a good thing. After once again rounding the cove at Büyükçakıl beach, a storm rolled in. Perfect timing, allowing us to hang out for a couple of hours at a chill little cabana bar, sipping beers and listening to the thunder and patter of rain.