Lycian Way: Çıralı and Mt. Olympus
Days 11 - 16 on the Lycian Way
While we had intended to hike the length of Turkey’s Lycian Way, the heat wave in October of 2024 changed our plan. We were doing the trail our way, by riding buses between trail towns and then immersing ourselves in all the amenities of each area - including day hikes along the Lycian Way. We started in Kınık, spent 5 days in Gelemiş, and then another 6 days in Kaş. Leaving Kaş, we rode the bus eastward through the mountains and along the coast, passing through Demre and Finike - absolutely gorgeous bus ride! We got off the bus along the D-400 highway at the Çıralı junction and walked downhill for almost an hour, arriving at Yoruk Parki camp and pension, where we booked a room for one night. Our goal this first evening was to hike to the Chimera mountain flames, which have mysteriously been burning for over 2,500 years.
Çıralı Upper Flames
The Çıralı flames are natural, perpetual flames that erupt from cracks in the rocky slopes of Mount Chimera. They are caused by the combustion of naturally occurring methane gas seeping from the earth. Reportedly, the flames could be seen by ships at sea and acted as a lighthouse and navigation point for centuries. There are the “upper flames” and the “lower flames”. Our first night in Çıralı, we hiked to the upper flames.
The trail from the pension was anything but clear. We bumbled around and mostly went straight up with fingers crossed that it was somewhat in the right direction. We eventually found a more well-worn path about 30 minutes after climbing a steep embankment, arriving at the upper flames just after sunset. The beach town of Çıralı glowed in the distance. As soon as it was dark, we could see the flames, flaring up from the ground all around us, like small campfires - so, of course, I wished we had some marshmallows! (Lesson applied later in the week when we visited the lower flames.) We hung out for a bit, then did a return night hike in the dark with headlamps. Fortunately, we found a better descent to the pension!
Çıralı Lower Flames
According to legend, the flames are the breath of the mythical Chimera, a monstrous beast with the body of a lion, the head of a goat, and the tail of a snake. The myth tells of a hero, Bellerophon, riding the winged horse Pegasus, sent to kill the Chimera. After defeating it, Bellerophon buried the monster deep in the earth, where its fiery breath still escapes through the rocks today. Waaayyy better story than “seeping methane gas”….
When we visited the Chimera a second time later in the week, we went through the official park entry gate in at Çıralı (paying a small fee) and followed the crowd up a well maintained path suitable for all ages. The lower flames were much busier, with families streaming in to cook various goodies on the natural fire: hotdogs wrapped in bread, marshmallows, sausages, dough balls… It was a festive scene, with people sharing their food and fire sticks. The ancient Temple of Hephaistos honoring the Greek god of fire was built on the site; its ruins are still visible at the lower flames, as well.
Olympus, Lycian Ancient City
Çıralı is a relaxed little coastal village where beach lovers stroll along the streets barefoot, families cycle casually along its sleepy roads, and garden lodges hide behind overgrown bougainvillea, roses, azaleas, and trumpet flowers. Pomegranate and oranges are picked locally and palm trees mingle with pines and cacti. Immediately sensing the calm, relaxed vibe and off-the-grid feel of Çıralı, we booked a bungalow at Güneş Pansiyon for four nights.
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The ancient city of Olympos is hidden at the southern end of Çıralı beach, where crumbling temples, Roman baths, and early Christian basilicas line a shaded river that flows into the sea. Olympos was an ancient Lycian city, founded during the Hellenistic period and later absorbed into the Lycian League. Similar to Kekova and Simena near Kaş, it was a thriving maritime hub for centuries.
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Olympos reached its height under Roman and Christian Byzantine rule, bustling with trade, religion, and maritime activity. But like many Lycian coastal cities, it eventually succumbed to the tides of history. Starting in the 3rd century CE, Arab pirate raids, pandemics, earthquakes, and the slow silting of its harbor began to erode its importance. Olympos faded into obscurity by the late medieval period. Its temples collapsed, its port dried up, and its once-proud civic life disappeared into the overgrowth. For centuries, shepherds and fishermen were the only visitors, until archaeology and tourism revived interest.
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We paid the 10 euro entry fee to enter the complex, teeming with restoration activity. Since 2006, archaeologists have been excavating, restoring, and conserving mosaics, churches, tombs, and urban structures, adding informational signboards to guide visitors through the site. After exploring the more restored areas, we crossed the stream and followed an overgrown path into a tangled jungle of vines. We passed through the scattered ruins of a yet-to-be-restored theater and bathhouse and somehow exited back onto the far southern end of Çıralı beach. We noticed another path leading up the steep cliff, so we followed it.
This little local trail off the beaten path had all sorts of unexpected treats: a gorgeous view of Mount Olympus and the exquisite turquoise waters of Çıralı beach, narrow crevasses, a vertical wall buzzing with climbers, and then a wind-swept, pine forested cliff overlooking sea caves far below.
On the way back, we even found the crumbled remains of a Genovese castle! Such an unexpected trail!
Day Hike on the Lycian Way
The Lycian Way trail passes through the ancient city of Olympus and proceeds directly across Çıralı beach. On the north end of the beach, we followed the Lycian Way up a rocky cliff and then through dry, rocky terrain populated only by scrub pines. We passed above or walked around a few desolate beach coves accessible only by boat or on foot, finally reaching Maden Koyu beach.
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The black sand beach was empty except for a few young women sunbathing. We plopped down in a shaded area and napped to the gentle sound of waves lapping at the shore. Who could resist? From there, we returned along the same route.
Good Eats in Çıralı
During our five day stay in Çıralı, we dined repeatedly at Yakamoz, a local restaurant that never got old. They had terrific grilled fish, hearty vegetable stews, and a roaring fireplace for the chilly evenings. The breakfast (brunch) buffet at Güneş Pansiyon was also extensive, with a variety of unique items made locally - including harissa! Homemade jams fresh from their garden, olive oil and herbs, a broad selection of cheeses, olives, fruits, salad and vegetables, hard boiled eggs, whole grain bread and a selection of savory and sweet bakery options - Wow! These two places kept us well-fed!
Çıralı Final Photo Roundup
Çıralı was the last stop on our Lycian Way “tour”. After spending 16 days exploring the trail towns along the Tekke coast, we returned to Antalya and then Istanbul to conclude our month-long stay in Turkey.
Local mosque, Çıralı, Turkey
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This wasn’t quite the Lycian Way backpacking trek that we had expected — but I have no complaints. We still did day hikes, explored archaeological sites, ate all the Turkish delights we could stomach, and even worked in some scuba diving, sea kayaking, and an unplanned side trip to Cappadocia before hitting the “trail”! Sometimes, it’s better to face the reality of a situation (in this case, a heat wave), and simply be flexible. Our best trips are usually the least planned and this was yet another example.
