Basque Country and Rioja Valley in Spain
Northern Spain feels entirely different from Andalucía in the south. In the Basque country, identity runs deep—older than Spain itself, older than Rome, anchored in a language that predates Indo-European roots. Green mountains roll toward the Atlantic. Fishing villages climb the rugged coastlines. In cities like Bilbao and San Sebastián, avant-garde design stands beside centuries-old stone, and pintxos bars serve up a smorgasbord of evening appetizers. In Basque, dinner starts at 10:00 pm and morning coffee doesn’t exist.
In the Rioja Valley, vineyards ripple across golden hills. Roman settlers first cultivated grapes here; medieval monasteries refined the craft. Modern bodegas add architectural ambition to elevate the experience. Rioja is a quiet landscape shaped by seasonal rhythms and a mellow tempo that matches its Tempranillo. Together, the Basque region and Rioja offer a different Spain: less layered by conquest than Andalucia, but equally rich in continuity, tradition, and place.
Northern Spain feels entirely different from Andalucía in the south. In the Basque country, identity runs deep—older than Spain itself, older than Rome, anchored in a language that predates Indo-European roots. The Basque region and Rioja offer a different Spain: less layered by conquest than Andalucia, but equally rich in continuity, tradition, and place.
When the sun descends, Spain comes alive, fueled by hearty blends of Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Garnacha. In Rioja Valley, wine is a religion and I had come to be baptized…
In Guernica, we confronted the atrocities of war, civic violence, and the fragility of democracy. We, the people, must never forget…
What was meant to be a short stroll in Getxo became, instead, a willful surrender to serendipity.
Rise and shine in San Sebastian and Hondarribia, on the northern tip of Spain. In the off-season, these party towns are calm and quiet…
On our roadtrip to the southern part of Basque country, we took the scenic route through Gorbea Natural Park, where we sought the enchanted Otzarreta Forest with its mossy trees.
Rioja is wine country and our local expert guide, Inma from Rioja Wine Trips, helps us make the most of it. Through her patient teaching, we discover the religion of wine (hint: it's a meditation).
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a small island that has served several purposes throughout the ages - monastery, fortress, and witch-hunting ground. The 240+ staircase to the top is a mini-pilgrimage, with crosses along the way to remind you to say a prayer or think of a loved one.
Bilbao is home of the Guggenheim museum, designed by famed architect Frank Gehry. The city is also renowned for its Michelin-star restaurants, but $150 for a "tasting" lunch (per person) was hard to rationalize...

